London dining guide
Another round of JG Saves
You’ve reached Ghetto Gastro. Jon, Les, and P can’t come to the phone right now but subscribe and they’ll get back to you as soon as possible.
From JG saves. Malaysian counter kitchens, West African tasting menus, classic pubs.
Paradise (Soho): A dim-lit jewel in Soho serving Sri Lankan favorites: black pork curry, creamy coconut sambols. Good for groups.
Hoppers (Soho): One of London’s beloved Sri Lankan/Tamil outposts: paper-thin hopper shells, kothu roti, and lamb dosa with heat.
Kiln (Soho): Northern Thai fire in Soho. Think smoky grills, punchy spice, herbal brightness. Sit at the bar to watch the flares and waft of smoke.
Sketch (Mayfair): An immersive art-meets-design experience. Mirrored spaces, boudoir rooms. Known for their egg-shaped bathroom stalls. This is more an art house than a restaurant. Hyped but worth it. Get a reservation in their Gallery.
Barrafina (Soho): Timeless tapas in Soho’s heart. No reservations at this counter-only gem. Croquetas, razor clams in garlic, tortilla.
Fonda (Mayfair/Soho border): Santiago Lastra’s reinvention of the fonda is tucked just off the hustle of Regent Street. Mexican through British produce: masa, chiles, sea urchin salsa.
KOL (Marylebone): Lastra’s flagship: Mexico is a reference, not a rule. Wild seafood, game, and seasonal British produce take the lead. Dishes are refined, balancing brightness and earth, with the occasional chile sting.
Berenjak (Soho): Persian fare. The original location, our rec, is in Soho. They have a location in Borough and are opening a third in Mayfair. For New Yorkers who want a taste: there’s a popup at the Brooklyn Soho House.
Ikoyi (Strand/Temple): At 180 Strand, Ikoyi commands attention. Two Michelin stars, bold Afro-Caribbean-Japanese fusion, tasting menus that play in acidity, texture, and surprise.
Akoko (Fitzrovia): A West African tasting room with jollof rice and silky soups and blistering stews. Everything is heightened. Warm lighting, minimalist décor, but deeply in conversation with ancestry.
Sun In Splendour (Notting Hill): Classic pub. Fried cod and fries. Get a pint.
Granger & Co. (Notting Hill): Sunny café energy with ricotta pancakes, vibrant salads. Good for brunch and lunch. Australian.
Luca (Clerkenwell): Elevated Italian. Come here for a bowl of pasta.
Brat (Shoreditch): Basque techniques with wood fire. The whole turbot is an institution; leeks, smoked salt, olive oil, all sing.
The Clove Club (Shoreditch Town Hall): Fine dining without the intimidation. Seasonal British menus and clever technique but you feel you’re dining among friends, not in a temple. Tasting courses punctuated with warmth and curiosity.
Smoking Goat (Shoreditch): Thai bar vibes in a raw warehouse shell. Fish sauce wings, Isaan salads, sticky rice baskets.
Hawker’s Kitchen (King’s Cross): A Malaysian counter kitchen. The laksa is fragrant, the nasi lemak layered, roti canai soft and comforting.
The Holly Bush (Hampstead): A pub that feels like a British country inn in the middle of London. Timber beams, stone floors, fireplaces. Fish pie, hearty mains, sticky toffee pudding. Come cold and leave warm.
